Dusk at the end of March in the pines of Oaxaca’s Sierra Norte. An American robin (Turdus migratorius) sings to the twilight and I ache with homesickness. The mountains roll northwest in vast blue silhouettes. Montana is incomprehensibly far away. The song of the robin carries me the thousands of miles in an instant and I’m home, Missoula at the cusp of spring, the cottonwood buds swelling along the river, the pileated woodpeckers (Dryocopus pileatus) calling. I could hop on a jet, worsen the climate crisis, and be home tomorrow. But my decision is made. This year I won’t be going back. 

The robin keeps singing. The Mexican whip-poor-wills (Antrostomus arizonae) join in with their burry cries. This robin is here, though its familiar voice makes me long to be there, and here it will most likely stay, at the southern tip of a vast breeding range that spans most of North America. And this year, so will I. 

The arenilla

I never planned to divide my life between two countries, but love intervened. And this year, as much as I miss Montana, my friends, my family, my summer field biology work and the land I know well there, there are many reasons to stay. My once-freeish United States is under attack by its president, and Carito would be at risk there. Climate change continues to intensify. All of the air travel back and forth hurts. And here, Carito and I have taken on a big project.

Near the terreno of her abuelo Teo is a patch of earth that hasn’t been cultivated in a few decades. Since I’ve lived here, I’ve gotten more and more excited about local food, all of the knowledge that exists here, all of the possibilities for growing food ecologically. The abuelo Teo in particular inspires me with the type of biodiverse agriculture he practices. And so, at some point this winter as I was talking about wanting to grow sweet potatoes (Ipomoea batatas) and yuca (Manihot esculenta), he told me: there’s that corner down by the river, the sandy arenilla. Clear it, plant it. Go for it.

Passionfruit and sweet potatoes

And so, in these months, I’ve been going to the arenilla with a machete and a handsaw. Some days Carito has joined me, other days she’s brought me lunch. When my mom visited, she helped too. I’ve been getting to know this tangle of vines, herbs, and young trees. Opening up sunlight, a small patch of disturbance in the tropical forest. Reading, planting, and imagining. The traditional techniques of the milpa, agroforestry systems of the Pacific island nations, which plants need the moisture along the arroyo and which can survive in the drier earth above. Getting ready for May and June, the start of the rainy season: planting time.

Many plants to learn: bananas (Musa spp.), sugarcane (Saccharum officinarum), taro (Colocasia esculenta), coconut (Cocos nucifera). The fast-growing plants of the milpa: corn (Zea mays), beans (Phaseolus vulgaris), squash (Cucurbita spp.), gourds (Lagenaria siceraria), papayas (Carica papaya), chiles (Capsicum spp.), tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum). Passionfruit vines (Passiflora edulis), sweet potatoes (Ipomoeas batata), peanuts (Arachis hypogaea), yams (Dioscorea spp.), yuca (Manihot esculenta) and bamboo, hibiscus (Hibiscus sabdariffa) and lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus). Cacao (Theobroma cacao), ginger (Zingiber officinale), turmeric (Curcuma longa). Breadfruit (Artocarpus altilis), limes (Citrus spp.), starfruit (Averrhoa carambola), black persimmon (Diospyros nigra). Chayote (Sechium edule) and luffa gourd (Luffa aegyptiaca), sesame (Sesamum indicum) and okra (Abelmoschus esculentus). And still, Montana tugs at me. Some days I feel very torn in two.

Tinamous near the orange grove

But as Trump wages a senseless war in Iran, as Montana passes from a dry, dry winter into a climate-crazy spring, as the global fertilizer trade contracts abruptly and the spinning plates of industrial agriculture teeter, something about tending this land makes sense to me.

April 1st, 2026. The thicket tinamous (Crypturellus cinnamomeus) sing from the forest near the orange grove as the pale eastern sky awaits the sunrise. The tinamous are close, the closest I’ve ever heard them. The trees were just silhouettes against a rosy dawn as I walked past the terreno of the abuelo Teo 20 minutes ago, but now there’s enough light to read by. Below me, the dirt track drops down toward the arenilla, and I can see the clearing along the arroyo where I’ve planted milpa and bananas. A clay-colored thrush (Turdus grayi), one of the coastal cousins of the American robin of the sierra, sings from the top of a palo mulato (Bursera simaruba). New leaves and flower buds are emerging around it. And from the orange grove I hear something else, a bird that sounds like a squeaky toy—a sulphur-bellied flycatcher (Myiodynastes luteiventris)! From its South American winter range, this flycatcher has arrived to spend the summer here in Oaxaca. 

Those that migrate and those that stay

It’s my first time hearing this bird. In past years, I’ve always left for Montana before it arrives. The song of the clay-colored thrush, the arrival of the sulphur-bellied flycatcher, the full-on chorus of the thicket tinamous: spring is arriving here, too, in the heat of the dry season in the Oaxacan tropical forest. Warblers and vireos are on their way north. Say hi to Montana for me when you get there, my friends. And here, this year, I’ll stay, with the thicket tinamous, the milpa, and the sulphur-bellied flycatcher.

Related stories

Mystery of the twilight: birds at dusk and sustainable agriculture

Birds in the wheat: industrial agriculture and declining birds

Journey to the pileated woodpeckers: earth connection in a critical time

The post A familiar voice a long way from home appeared first on Wild With Nature.

Russian-olives (Elaeagnus angustifolia) dappled silver with September moonlight. Almost silent, tree crickets and a distant dog. I look up at the starry night and think about all the birds I can’t hear. Are they up there tonight, flying? 

Migration, vast and shifting—I’ll never really comprehend it. But there are glimpses. 

The fall flocks. 3600 common grackles (Quiscalus quiscula) streaming past in waves, flooding the cottonwoods, an out-of-tune orchestra belting out at full volume. Squadrons of grackles, heads bronzed in the morning light. Fifteen minutes later, they’re gone.

The birds of summer, suddenly gone without warning. Back to the Marias River, the place of no black-billed cuckoos (Coccyzus erythropthalmus) this year. Where did the 45 northern house wrens (Troglodytes aedon) of July go? A cedar waxwing (Bombycilla cedrorum) flock trills from bare evening branches, descending to feed among orange-tinged chokecherry (Prunus virginiana) leaves. Otherwise, quiet like a deserted town. The brown thrashers (Toxostoma rufum), the mountain bluebirds (Sialia currucoides), the violet-green swallows (Tachycineta thalassina) feeding young. Gone. The bank swallow (Riparia riparia) colony silent, too late for goodbyes.

Birds in migration

But wait now, quietly, intently. Watch the chokecherries, tune your eyes to the silent flit of a foraging warbler. Strain your ears for chips and seeps. The chokecherries are alive with birds from the north. White-throated sparrows (Zonotrichia albicollis) and Lincoln’s sparrows (Melospiza lincolnii), yellow-rumped warblers (Setophaga coronata) and Wilson’s warblers (Cardellina pusilla). And a different sharp call, a quick movement, a glimpse of something interesting. There it is again, gray and bright yellow in a different pattern. A mourning warbler (Geothlypis philadelphia), a bird that nests in shrubby areas in the boreal forest, the first time I’ve ever seen one.

Sparrows and screech-owls

Sometimes there’s nothing. Plains cottonwood (Populus deltoides) leaves flutter their final goodbyes to summer, and I wonder where the migratory flocks are. 

And then there are times when a weedy riverbank comes alive with sparrows, seeps and chips among the tumble-mustards (Sisymbrium loeselii) and cockleburs (Xanthium strumarium). 

A cold dawn and an eastern screech-owl (Megascops asio) whinnies from the cottonwoods. 

A neglected field of brush piles and Canada thistle (Cirsium arvense) down bursts with sparrows, hundreds of them, slender chipping (Spizella passerina) and clay-colored sparrows (Spizella pallida), bulky white-throated and white-crowned (Zonotrichia leucophrys) sparrows, the metallic tink call of a swamp sparrow (Melospiza georgiana).

The curves of fall migration

Migrating birds don’t always fly south. This fall I study range maps, learn the birds of the boreal forest that nest due north of my state, but whose migrations curve east through the Great Plains. I’ve never seen them in Helena. But out here in the shelterbelts, town parks, and green ash draws on the eastern Montana plains, with luck you might find them:

Mourning warblers, Cape May warblers (Setophaga tigrina), and purple finches (Haemorhous purpureus),

Philadelphia vireos (Vireo philadelphicus), purple martins (Progne subis), and ruby-throated hummingbirds (Archilochus colubris),

specks of feathers and fast-beating hearts on a journey I’ll never really comprehend.

One morning watching these chokecherries and weeds and brush piles overflow with southbound birds

is all is takes for me to fall in love, again and again

with chokecherries

weed patches

cottonwood leaves fluttering goodbye

and screech-owls singing in the cold September dawn.

Afterword

This story is really special to me—and extra special because it’s my last one before I go on hiatus for a while. I’ve shared some more details about that towards the end of the podcast.

Independent podcasting isn’t easy, which is one of the reasons I’m taking a break for a while. In the meanwhile, all of the ways that you support this show remain greatly appreciated! Spreading the word about Wild With Nature is huge, and leaving a rating on your favorite podcast platform helps too. And of course, my Patreon supporters are what’s kept me going this long. (If you’re a current supporter, don’t worry—I’m pausing your monthly charges until I start podcast production again.) If you’re not a supporter but would like to look into it, please check out https://www.patreon.com/wildwithnature. Podcasting can be lonely at times, but knowing you’re there with me makes it much less so.

The post Fall migration appeared first on Wild With Nature.

July 9, 2025, Highwood Creek, Chouteau County, Montana. I hear it as soon as I step out of the car, that resonant, knocking cucucu that I’ve been listening for all across Montana this summer. Black-billed cuckoo (Coccyzus erythropthalmus)! My hands are shaking and my heart is thumping as I start recording with my phone, just in case the cuckoo doesn’t sing for very long. I hurry to pull my parabolic recorder out of the car, turn it on, waste precious seconds debating whether to bother with the headphones. I slip one headphone on, aim the parabola, and press record. The cuckoo keeps singing.

The wild red raspberries (Rubus idaeus) are ripe along Highwood Creek and the fireweed (Chamerion angustifolium) is blooming. The cuckoo is singing from a patch of cottonwood gallery forest sandwiched between the creek, the gravel county road, and a driveway. I walk a bit closer along the road. The singing stops. A slender bird with a long tail and a very white belly sails across the driveway and disappears into a dense clump of chokecherries.

Somewhere among the forest

The cuckoo sings again from the chokecherries (Prunus virginiana), cucucu, cucucu, rhythmic and soothing. A minute or two later, I hear it again farther downstream. It must have slipped out of the chokecherries without me noticing. 

Then it falls silent. I wait 15 minutes. Nothing. Only the song of a black-headed grosbeak (Pheucticus melanocephalus) fills the cottonwoods. But the cuckoo is out there, somewhere, a silent shadow among the shrubs. The memory of its voice reverberates in my body: a mystery. A reminder. A call to understand. There is more going on in this changeable forest than we can possibly know.

It was music that brought Anna Kurtin to the cuckoos—music and a curiosity about secretive wildlife. After a childhood near Austin, Texas and a biology degree at the University of Texas at Austin, she began working for the National Park Service in Arizona studying bats and spotted owls. The challenge of finding these elusive animals and a childhood love of music—playing percussion, specifically—came together to draw her deeper into acoustic methods of monitoring mysterious wildlife. And in 2022 this interest brought her to the University of Montana, where a team of biologists and conservationists had already begun to coalesce around black-billed cuckoos and was seeking a graduate student. 

July silence

In Montana there’s a long time in the July night when the cottonwood forest is nearly silent. Nobody sings; only the faint burbling of the water ripples the stillness. Perhaps a fledgling great horned owl (Bubo virginianus) screeches once in a while. And amid the silence, if you’re lucky, you might hear the croaking flight call of a black-billed cuckoo passing by overhead. In some parts of the breeding range, observers have heard as many as six cuckoos flying past in the night, making these calls. Why do they do this? We still don’t know. Are they venturing forth to forage, heading out to feed on caterpillars in the dark? Sometimes people also hear cuckoos singing during the night, that distinctive cucucu ringing out from the depths of the forest.

If only we could be in multiple places at once, listening night and day for the sound of a cuckoo. Perhaps then we could begin to answer some of the many mysteries about these birds. But there was a way to do this, it turned out, a device known as an autonomous recording unit (ARU). An ARU is simply a battery-powered microphone with a memory card. By placing ARUs along eastern Montana’s river valleys, Anna’s team hoped to be able to find more cuckoos.

In search of black-billed cuckoos

In 2022 and 2023, Anna and her collaborators—Dr. Erim Gómez and the Charismatic Minifauna Lab at the University of Montana, Anna Noson and the University of Montana Bird Ecology Lab, Dr. Andy Boyce and the Smithsonian Migratory Bird Center, and biologists at Montana Fish, Wildlife, and Parks and Montana Audubon—set out ARUs in a variety of habitats along the Missouri, Musselshell, and Yellowstone Rivers. These general areas were already known from previous sightings and habitat modeling as some of the best in Montana for black-billed cuckoos. But the team wanted to gain a finer-scale understanding of where cuckoos were, where they weren’t, and why.

They programmed each ARU to record sounds for four half-hour blocks each day, two at night and two during the morning. (If they had left the units running 24/7, they would have rapidly depleted the batteries and memory cards.) They left recorders out from early to late summer to capture the black-billed cuckoo breeding period.

38,000 hours

Two seasons of the constantly-changing music of the cottonwood forest elapsed. Yellow-breasted chats (Icteria virens) sang, and orchard orioles (Icterus spurius). Great horned owls hooted in the night. July brought an emergence of hungry baby birds, and a flood of fledgling northern house wrens (Troglodytes aedon) begged harshly. The battery-powered microphones flicked on and off, logging it all in half-hour snapshots. In all, over 38,000 hours of audio. And somewhere within those thousands and thousands of hours, perhaps, were the songs and flight calls of black-billed cuckoos.

Now came the many months of intensive computer work. Developing a machine-learning algorithm with collaborators from the Kitzes Lab at the University of Pittsburgh to sort out cuckoo sounds from everything else. Listening to countless hours of audio to test the algorithm. Compiling habitat data the team had collected in the field. Building statistical models to account for factors such as background sound, vegetation density, and time of year that might affect cuckoo detections. More models to characterize the habitats where cuckoos called and whether the same habitat factors also correlated with frequency of calling. All of the quiet, painstaking, methodical work of a Master’s project.

Finding Montana’s black-billed cuckoos

At last, the results. Of the 41 sites where Anna and her team placed ARUs in 2022—all of them spots where cuckoos had been observed in previous years—they documented black-billed cuckoos at 12. In 2023, they expanded their sampling to 107 sites, including both known cuckoo spots from previous years and never-before-surveyed sites spread across multiple habitats within the same river valleys. That year, they found cuckoos at 20 of 107 sites. 

In 2022, Anna and her team fine-tuned when to set out ARUs and when to pick them up to capture a full cuckoo breeding season. 2023 gave them this full seasonal picture—and they found that calling activity varied strongly throughout the summer. Black-billed cuckoos called relatively frequently throughout June and the first half of July, during the day and less frequently at night. But after July 18, calling activity declined precipitously. If 2023 was at all representative, it would seem that the chances of hearing a cuckoo in Montana after mid-July become very slim. 

Modeling cuckoo habitat

The habitat models added more detail to previous notions of what an “ideal” black-billed cuckoo habitat might look along eastern Montana’s rivers. To find a place that might be good for cuckoos: Look for landscapes where the river’s-edge forest canopy is extensive—landscapes, perhaps, where the cottonwoods (Populus spp.), willows (Salix spp.), and green ashes (Fraxinus pennsylvanica) stretch for miles. As you walk across this landscape, look for patches hundreds of yards wide where there’s lots of variation in the canopy height of the forest, where old trees and younger ones mix.

Search for spots where there are tall shrubs like chokecherries in the understory. Stay away from places where the conifers intrude and avoid areas close to the river crowded with single-age stands of young cottonwood and willow saplings. Instead, look for patches with lots of vertical complexity: areas where younger and older trees mix, creating a more variable canopy. And maybe, just maybe, you’ll hear a cuckoo.

Return to the Marias River

July 6, 2025. In three more days I’ll get to hear the black-billed cuckoo along Highwood Creek, but I still have no clue of that. This evening I’ve returned to the Marias River where I listened for cuckoos in early June, the patch where Anna Fasoli heard them singing in 2021. Common nighthawks (Chordeiles minor) peent in the gathering darkness as I hike down to the river and pitch my tent near the cottonwoods. But then the night deepens into that July silence. No cuckoo song reaches my ears, no croaking flight call. No black-billed cuckoo wakes me from my dreams.

I get up in the morning to the shrill calls of a family group of American kestrels (Falco sparverius) as the sun lights up the trees. An adult brown thrasher (Toxostoma rufum) feeds a begging juvenile, then launches into an extended bout of song. A flood of young northern house wrens begs from the forest undergrowth. The brown thrasher keeps singing for a long time—loudly—though I didn’t hear him at all last month. Will I have the same luck with a cuckoo? But as I wander around in this constantly-changing forest, neither a croak nor a cucucu reaches my ears. 

When we don’t find cuckoos

If I could convert myself into a sound recorder and stay here for weeks or months, would I finally hear a cuckoo? Or is this extensive cottonwood forest like most of Anna Kurtin’s 2022 sites: a place that had cuckoos in a past year, a place where the habitat seems okay, but with no cuckoos now?

Anna points out how variable these birds can be from year to year, or even within a single summer. There’s the research of Claire Johnson and Thomas Benson in Illinois, which strongly suggests that black-billed cuckoos can move widely even within a single breeding season. All of it highlights that for a species so secretive and so mobile, even answering a simple question like “where are the cuckoos?” is incredibly difficult.

Fall migration

We don’t know exactly when black-billed cuckoos leave Montana in the fall. Across the breeding range, sightings diminish markedly between August and September. Migrating at night, they join a tide of birds in motion, a nocturnal wave headed south. They pass by almost unnoticed, guided by the stars. An invisible marathon through dark skies, a lonely flight call over the sleeping earth.

By the end of September they start arriving in parts of Honduras and Nicaragua, where the Middle American screech-owls (Megascops guatemalae) trill at dawn. They keep advancing southward and make it to Colombia, Ecuador, the Amazon region of Peru and Bolivia. And then they almost disappear. For the three months between December and February, all that we know about black-billed cuckoos comes from a few dozen observations. Even where they are in this season is rather a mystery—let alone what they’re doing, what their lives are like in this vast, biodiverse region. And if it’s hard to study such a secretive bird in June and July, it’s even harder in January, when the cuckoos are silent. 

Black-billed cuckoos across the Americas

But here, too, are people who fall in love with the cuckoos and try to understand them. During the Covid pandemic, a team of researchers at SELVA, a Colombian non-profit dedicated to conservation in the Neotropics, began a study of black-billed cuckoos. The team carried out cuckoo censuses in Ecuador and identified an important region for nonbreeding cuckoos in El Oro Province, in southern Ecuador. They also fitted three cuckoos in Colombia with radio transmitters, hoping to learn more about their migratory paths using the international Motus network of radio receivers.

Although two of the cuckoos with radio transmitters disappeared without a further trace, one of them later showed up in North America, pinging Motus towers near Lake Erie and Lake Ontario. But sadly, the project’s funding did not continue. The biology of the black-billed cuckoo remains little-known in this region; but the team from SELVA is determined to find a way to continue with this research in the near future. 

The more that I learn about black-billed cuckoos, the more they fascinate me. A migration in the dark; a silent and little-known life in the tropical forest; a population decline that we still don’t understand well. Waiting in the silence of the July night among Montana’s cottonwoods, almost without breathing, waiting for the voice of a cuckoo. You might hear it, but most likely you won’t. And among all of the unknowns, a network of people, from Montana and Illinois to Colombia and Ecuador, who join together to try to understand cuckoos and help them. 

Afterword

Something that I find very striking about black-billed cuckoos is the degree of collaboration they seem to inspire. Many thanks to Anna Kurtin and Dr. Camila Gómez (SELVA) for their participation in this story, and to their research teams for all of their contributions to our understanding of cuckoos. To learn more about all of the ongoing research and conservation projects at SELVA and to support this important work, visit https://www.selva.org.co/. Thanks to Harriet Marble for telling me about a possible black-billed cuckoo report near the Highwood Mountains, which finally allowed me to observe one! Finally, thanks to Tim Spahr for his permission to include his black-billed cuckoo song and flight call recordings in the podcast, and to Ian van Coller, Bo Crees, and Peter Dudley for letting me include their photos (one of Bo’s photos is also featured in this page’s banner).

Further reading

Hughes, J.M. (2020). Black-billed cuckoo (Coccyzus erythropthalmus), version 1.0. In Birds of the World (A.F. Poole, editor). Cornell Lab of Ornithology, Ithaca, NY, USA. https://birdsoftheworld.org/bow/species/bkbcuc/cur/introduction

Johnson, C.A. (2021). Detection, habitat use, and occupancy dynamics of black-billed cuckoos and yellow-billed cuckoos in Illinois. M.Sc. thesis. Urbana, IL: University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign. https://www.ideals.illinois.edu/items/118405

Johnson, C.A. & Benson, T.J. (2022). Dynamic occupancy models reveal black-billed and yellow-billed cuckoos have high rates of turnover during the breeding season. Ornithological Applications 124(3): duac021. https://doi.org/10.1093/ornithapp/duac021

Kurtin, A.M. (2025). Comparing survey methods and investigating habitat use of black-billed cuckoos (Coccyzus erythropthalmus) in the Northern Great Plains. M.Sc. thesis. Missoula, MT: University of Montana. https://scholarworks.umt.edu/etd/12436/

Marks, J.S., Hendricks, P. & Casey, D. (2016). Birds of Montana. Arrington, VA: Buteo Books.

The post The silence before the cuckoo’s song appeared first on Wild With Nature.

June 8, 2025, Marias River, north-central Montana, USA. My headlamp lights up the deer trail ahead of me as I pick my way towards the Marias River through the dark pre-dawn badlands. I generally prefer to walk without a light, but the terrain is rough here. And I wouldn’t want to trip over a rattlesnake. I stop where the trail descends steeply into a narrow gully, listening. I turn off my headlamp. Rock wrens (Salpinctes obsoletus) sing from the eroded shadows of clay around me. The first hint of light is touching the northeastern sky.

It was the possibility of black-billed cuckoos (Coccyzus erythropthalmus) that brought me here, although I know the possibility is slim. In 2021, while Anna Fasoli was floating the river, she heard and recorded a singing cuckoo here. This is a bird that I’ve lived my whole life without encountering, a bird which a long-ago generation of nineteenth-century naturalists would observe descending on orchards in flocks to feed on caterpillars. Hardly anyone sees flocks of black-billed cuckoos now. Insecticides and habitat loss are thought to be to blame. To see a cuckoo at all, at least in Montana, is a rare encounter that takes a lot of effort, a lot of luck, or both. But the decline of black-billed cuckoos, like almost every aspect of their biology, remains shrouded in unknowns. And so here I am, listening to rock wrens in a dark badlands gully, bound for the river and imagining cuckoos.

From the badlands to the cottonwoods

Last night, I camped high at the end of an access road on a wide bench above the badlands. Grasshopper sparrows (Ammodramus savannarum) serenaded me from unbroken grassland as I cooked ramen soup with milkweed (Asclepias speciosa) flower buds by headlamp over my little gas stove. Tiny biting midges tormented me, followed me into my car, and even managed to sneak into my tent.

I woke (reluctantly) at 4:00 am and was ready to go by 4:20—backpack, headlamp, snacks, birding gear, bear spray. And now rock wrens sing from the wrinkles of the badlands, and the cottonwood forest beckons below.

The northern house wrens (Troglodytes aedon) have begun singing by the time I reach the edge of the cottonwoods. A great horned owl (Bubo virginianus) hoots just once in the distance. The creatures of the night are giving way to the dawn chorus. An abandoned homestead weathers slowly into elegant oblivion at the edge of the trees. The shed sags to the north, defeated, but the old bones of the two-story house remain strong. I walk gingerly among fallen boards with rusty nails and peek inside, hoping wildly that an American barn owl (Tyto furcata) might be roosting. But all I find is a rusting box spring and an old galvanized wash tub. An eastern kingbird (Tyrannus tyrannus) gives his electrical call from a branch level with a gaping second-story window frame. The air is thick with stories.

Habitat for black-billed cuckoos

Continuing on, I pass a white-tailed deer (Odocoileus virginianus) bedded down with her spotted fawn. She watches me with mild concern and I veer far around, leaving them undisturbed.

I’m at the edge of a massive cottonwood stand now, old trees with fissured bark. Most are narrowleaf cottonwoods (Populus angustifolia), with some broader-leaved Plains cottonwoods (Populus deltoides) mixed in. An old, dry river oxbow curves through the trees, and in places along it there’s a nice understory of chokecherry (Prunus virginiana) thickets. A gray catbird (Dumetella carolinensis) sings as a migrating Swainson’s thrush (Catharus ustulatus) gives his harmonic whistles from the undergrowth. To my untrained eye, this looks like good black-billed cuckoo habitat, as I understand it: an extensive deciduous forest with a shrubby understory, far away from insecticides. But I hear no cuckoo.

Where are the cuckoos?

Is it too early yet? Cuckoos arrive in Montana quite late in the spring, traveling from their poorly known South American winter range, apparently somewhere between Colombia, Venezuela, and Bolivia. Birds of Montana reports them showing up here in early to mid June—now, that is. Still, it seems to me that spring arrival dates for many birds have been a bit delayed this year. Perhaps the cuckoos just haven’t gotten here yet.

Of course, there are other possibilities. The specter of declines and all that is unknown hangs over them. There’s a lot that is unknown. Where exactly do they spend the winter? What are the paths of their migrations? How do they find outbreaks of the tent caterpillars and cicadas they seem to be so fond of eating? And will they come back to the Marias River, where they sang in July 2021? I think about all of the things that have to go right for them to make it back. There are too many possible tragedies: insecticides, the loss of an important habitat somewhere in their annual journey, window collisions, outdoor cats…

And then, of course, a cuckoo might be hiding in the chokecherry bush 15 feet away from me! If it’s not singing, I could very easily miss it.

The forest

I continue walking. The forest stretches for hundreds of acres. In some patches the trees are big and old; closer to the river, I find middle-aged stands and young cottonwood saplings. In the distance, I hear a beaver slap its tail once, alarmed at something. Western wood-pewees (Contopus sordidulus) and least flycatchers (Empidonax minimus) sing from the canopy and I’m surprised to hear a few yellow-headed blackbirds (Xanthocephalus xanthocephalus) in the distance—evidently there is a wetland slough on the other side of the river. 

I start wondering how I can manage a second visit, in case it’s still too early in the season for cuckoos. 

A coyote slips away from me as I follow fresh deer tracks along a river meander with some moisture in the bottom, growing up with sandbar willows (Salix exigua). A common yellowthroat (Geothlypis trichas) sings.

June exuberance

I find myself filled with gratitude that places like this still exist. A huge floodplain, a rich cottonwood habitat with multiple-aged trees, shrub patches, and wetlands. A home for many creatures, sculpted by floods and beavers, by cottonwood fluff on the June breeze, by a million relationships and interactions. It’s not pristine—the understory in many places is dominated by smooth brome (Bromus inermis), an invasive grass. And who knows if the cuckoos will come back. But in spite of everything, it’s bursting with life.

I think about all the unfathomable generations of life on earth. All of this June exuberance, millions of years of it, hangs in the air. I try to imagine the sounds and happenings of early June on this land in the time of the dinosaurs, whose bones lie fossilized on these plains. 

Life goes on

It’s bittersweet comfort to me to think that if we follow the fate of the dinosaurs, as we seem so perilously hell-bent on doing, life in some permutation will continue here. The smooth brome that the land managers ignore and the leafy spurge (Euphorbia esula) that they attack with herbicides will become part of the ecology of this place. With time, presumably, native insects will evolve to make greater use of these abundant new plants, these human introductions to the North American continent. The homestead will be long-gone, boards into dust, rusty nails buried beneath spring floods. Will the black-billed cuckoos come back? That is anyone’s guess.

The drumming of a red-naped sapsucker (Sphyrapicus nuchalis) pulls me out of my extinction musings. He’s close but just out of sight. Then he flies into the cottonwood right next to me, playing the resonant wood of a dead branch. He makes me think of the sapsuckers in the pileated woodpecker forest near Missoula, how they drum so frequently when they first arrive in April but become almost silent by this time. Is this a sapsucker that hasn’t found a mate, still diligently tapping away on the woodpecker equivalent of Tinder? I wonder if, like in Missoula, the late-April soundscape here is filled with sapsucker drumming.

Listening for cuckoos

I continue listening for a black-billed cuckoo. Nothing. A male black-headed grosbeak (Pheucticus melanocephalus) sings from the very highest branch of a cottonwood, not hiding himself frustratingly in the foliage this time like they often do. For the cuckoos, some birders would bring a portable speaker and blast the cucucu song, trying to get a bird to respond. Outside of limited use for formal biological surveys, I prefer not to do that, so I’m just doing passive listening. If a cuckoo sings today, it will be because it wants to.

The morning is warming up and a breeze has started rustling the cottonwood leaves. Northern house wrens continue singing, and the distant whistles of the western meadowlarks (Sturnella neglecta) echo against the badlands. The air is getting a yellow tinge as smoke rolls in from the once-unheard-of spring wildfires that are raging once again across the Canadian boreal forest.

No cuckoos. Some people might see it as a wasted morning: I went searching for something and didn’t find it. But I hope I get to waste many more mornings like this, contemplating millions of years of June exuberance along a wild river. And I hope the cuckoos come back.

P.S. More about cuckoos!

I am delighted to announce that in the upcoming months I’ll be sharing a second story about the mysterious lives of cuckoos featuring Anna Kurtin, who recently completed her Master’s degree in Wildlife Biology at the University of Montana. Anna has spent the past three years learning about black-billed cuckoos, effective ways of studying them, and which habitats they use in Montana. I’m excited to delve more deeply into cuckoo biology with her. Stay tuned!

More resources

eBird Basic Dataset. Version: EBD_relJun-2025. Cornell Lab of Ornithology, Ithaca, NY. June 2025.

Hughes, J.M. (2020). Black-billed cuckoo (Coccyzus erythropthalmus), version 1.0. In Birds of the World (A.F. Poole, editor). Cornell Lab of Ornithology, Ithaca, NY, USA. https://birdsoftheworld.org/bow/species/bkbcuc/cur/introduction

Marks, J.S., Hendricks, P. & Casey, D. (2016). Birds of Montana. Arrington, VA: Buteo Books.

The post How to not find black-billed cuckoos appeared first on Wild With Nature.

June 5, 2025, Chouteau County, Montana. Horned larks (Eremophila alpestris) tinkle in the pre-dawn sky. The indigo night cedes to pink over the distant blue silhouette of the Bears Paw Mountains. I chew on a cold, lifeless blueberry bagel as the clock approaches the appointed hour. 4:49 a.m. Half an hour before sunrise.

You are what you eat, so the saying goes. I am a plain of wheat that stretches to the horizon, lines of grain etched by massive tractors, moist morning air heavy with the sweet metallic bite of ag chemicals. The prairie is gone. The land has been transformed into a grid of wheat, huge green squares of this year’s crop and huge brown squares of chemical fallow. Not even a thistle dares to grow there.

It’s not all one giant wheat field, of course. There are the shelterbelts where a few trees protect a farm house from the wind. Some of them are tended with obvious care, lilacs blooming, lawn mowed, shed painted, flag flying. Others are relics from another time, windows gaping, barn roof sagging—memories of a time before farming became industrial.

The wheat and the prairie

The wheat fields fascinate me: the simplicity, the straight lines, the sheer scale of it, the huge tractors and sprayers, the plastic cubes of pesticide. Prairie converted into bagel factory.

The prairie always creeps in around the edges, though. This expansive sky, big as the world, so alive with clouds and colors. The veiny dock (Rumex venosus) and verbena (Verbena bracteata) that grow along the gravel roadsides. And right now, pre-dawn, it seems more like prairie than wheat field as the horned larks broadcast their tinkly songs from all over.

Ready, set, count birds

4:49 a.m. It’s time to start counting birds. This is my seventh year doing this Breeding Bird Survey (BBS) route, one of over 4000 routes across the United States and Canada that volunteers like me survey one morning each summer. For many North American breeding birds, the BBS is our best stab at tracking how their populations are changing from year to year. 

Montana birder Harriet Marble started this BBS route in 1979 and surveyed it annually for the next 37 years. Each June I think of her as I follow in her footsteps.

Everything is ready now. My notebook is out, the frequent stops sign taped to the back window of my car. As the horned larks tinkle and the prairie tries to seep in at the edges of the wheat, I set my 3-minute timer. Go! 

Birds in the wheat

For three minutes, I try to write it all down: every horned lark I see or hear, every western meadowlark (Sturnella neglecta), every mourning dove (Zenaida macroura) and thick-billed longspur (Rhynchophanes mccownii), gray partridge (Perdix perdix) and long-billed curlew (Numenius americanus), northern pintail (Anas acuta) and red-winged blackbird (Agelaius phoeniceus). Without moving from this point, I’m trying to count each individual bird within earshot and all of those that I can see within a quarter mile.

Three minutes beeps. I jump in my car, punch the next point into my GPS and race towards it, half a mile up the road. The survey consists of 50 points, three minutes of intensive listening and looking at each one. By 9:30 a.m., I’ll be done, a community of birds sandwiched in my notebook. Horned larks and thick-billed longspurs from the brown chemical fallow where nothing grows, a Say’s phoebe (Sayornis saya) from the shelterbelt near one of the farm houses. Northern pintails and a yellow-headed blackbird (Xanthocephalus xanthocephalus) from a small puddle in the middle of a field. Franklin’s gulls (Leucophaeus pipixcan) screaming as they fly over in small groups. Birds in the wheat.

Wheat fields and missing birds

Every year, I wonder how these birds are doing. I wonder it about the horned larks and thick-billed longspurs that sing so vigorously from the wheat fields. I find them here every year. Are they thriving, or are they dying invisibly from chemical exposure? Do horned larks get cancer like we do, or are their lives so short that it doesn’t matter? I wonder about the species that I only find in the pastures and the sagebrush, the places where the prairie isn’t totally gone. The chestnut-collared longspurs (Calcarius ornatus), Brewer’s sparrows (Spizella breweri), lark buntings (Calamospiza melanocorys)—surely there were more of them here before the wheat?

At Stop 19, a farmer drives past as I’m doing my 3-minute bird count. She waves, friendly, too polite to ask me what the heck I’m doing standing here with binoculars. Red-winged blackbirds sing from a moist depression in the field.

At Stop 36, a lark bunting helicopters down from the sky with lively abandon, landing on a fencepost at the edge of a pasture. Grasses and sagebrush. The prairie creeping in. And with it, the song of the lark bunting. Beyond him, wheat fields stretch towards the horizon. No lark buntings there.

Pesticides? Habitat loss?

Every year, the chemical contamination question haunts me, hanging heavy in the air like that sweet-metallic smell where the wheat grows. 3-minute point counts don’t give the answer. The thick-billed longspurs I write down in my notebook— Are they nesting successfully? How do farm chemicals affect them? Are these fields their happy homes, or death traps?

Regarding the loss of the prairie, the answers seem much more apparent. Plow prairie to grow wheat, and gone are the lark buntings. Gone are the Brewer’s sparrows and burrowing owls (Athene cunicularia). The horned larks remain, them and the thick-billed longspurs and that metallic smell in the air. The infinite sky remains. The farmers who welcome an out-of-place stranger with a friendly wave, trying to make it in an economy that has them growing massive fields of wheat. And once a year, me, eating blueberry bagels and wondering what these wheat fields mean for life on earth.

Lonesome Lake

The night before I camped at Lonesome Lake, where the wheat gives way to wetland, where thousands of Franklin’s gulls scream as they circle and land among coots (Fulica americana) and canvasbacks (Aythya valisineria). I watched the prairie gulls and thought of my grandmother, how I inherited her love of birds. I didn’t give it much thought when she was alive, but now a cloud of gulls or a mudflat full of shorebirds connects me to her, to how she loved the ocean and the life at its edge. And here, at the margin of the wheat, the Franklin’s gulls bring the ocean to the Great Plains summer. 

My grandmother was born in 1924, when lark buntings were already losing ground to wheat fields but before huge tractors, before synthetic insecticides, before farmers had to get big or get out. During my grandmother’s lifetime, grassland birds like chestnut-collared longspurs declined precipitously. And just like I eat blueberry bagels, my grandmother ate wheat bread. Life is full of paradoxes.

Blueberry bagels and wheat fields

At one edge of the wetland, a flock of black-necked stilts (Himanthopus mexicanus) is calling sharply. The last time I heard them calling like this was in Oaxaca this winter, in the mangroves along the edge of the Pacific Ocean, not too many kilometers from Grandfather Teo’s milpa and fruit trees. There the line between farm and wild land is much softer, and the air doesn’t have that metallic smell. I take pictures of the wheat fields to show him this winter—he’ll be curious about a system of agriculture so different, so foreign, so industrial.

There I’ll eat corn tostadas from small milpas tended by hand among the forest, and perhaps a thicket tinamou (Cryturellus cinnamomeus) will sing at dusk. There’s more than one way to grow food. But for now, I subsist on blueberry bagels: I am a plain of wheat that stretches to the horizon, up to the edge of Lonesome Lake where the Franklin’s gulls wail. The prairie is gone, but it keeps creeping in at the edge.

Afterword

Chestnut-collared longspurs and thick-billed longspurs are among the steepest-declining birds in the United States, according to the 2025 State of the Birds report. Both have lost well over 50% of their populations in the last 50 years. Meanwhile, the lark bunting has declined massively across its range.

So has the Baird’s sparrow (Centronyx bairdii)—a species which Harriet Marble used to hear regularly on this BBS route, well over a dozen in peak years during the 1990s. Each year from 1998 onwards, though, Baird’s sparrows have been few or entirely absent on the route.

Many questions remain regarding how the use of insecticides and herbicides may impact birds in places like Chouteau County. However, existing research points to the ongoing loss of the prairie to intensive agriculture (rather than pesticide use in itself) as the biggest driver of prairie bird declines.

Prairie losses have affected the Lonesome Lake area, too. Harriet Marble reports that for many years farmers had fields enrolled in the Conservation Reserve Program, which pays them to conserve soil and wildlife habitat by converting cropland back to grassland. Around Lonesome Lake, the program benefited many prairie birds, but the good news didn’t last. “When price of wheat increased, farmers must have left the program and then plowed up the habitat that once supported so many sparrows,” Harriet wrote me. Following the loss of the Conservation Reserve Program fields, numbers of prairie birds such as chestnut-collared longspurs and Savannah sparrows have diminished substantially. And from 2021 onwards, I have not heard a single Baird’s sparrow on this route.

Further reading

Hill, J.M., Egan, J.F., Stauffer, G.E. & Diefenbach, D.R. (2014). Habitat availability is a more plausible explanation than insecticide acute toxicity for U.S. grassland bird species declines. PLOS One 9(5): e98064. https://journals.plos.org/plosone/article/file?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0098064&type=printable

North American Bird Conservation Initiative. (2025). The state of the birds, United States of America, 2025. https://www.stateofthebirds.org/2025/

Rodríguez, V. & Venegas. D. (2013, 12 June). El Conteo de Aves en Reproducción (Breeding Bird Surveys) en el Norte de México. Sonoran Joint Venture. https://sonoranjv.org/es/el-conteo-de-aves-en-reproduccion-breeding-bird-surveys-en-el-norte-de-mexico/

Sater, S. (2025, 1 January). Mystery of the twilight: birds at dusk and sustainable agriculture. Wild With Nature. https://wildwithnature.com/2025/01/01/mystery-of-the-twilight/

United States Geological Survey, Eastern Ecological Science Center. (2022). BBS trends 1966-2022. https://eesc.usgs.gov/MBR/

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This story is the third and final in a series about a pair of pileated woodpeckers (Dryocopus pileatus) along the Clark Fork River near Missoula, Montana, USA. If you haven’t heard the rest of the story, you can start with part 1… or just jump in here!

When I next return to the pileated woodpecker forest, it’s early August, a hot afternoon with evening approaching. Wildfire smoke from Saskatchewan blurs the mountains into vague gray shapes and a western wood-pewee (Contopus sordidulus) sings lazily in the distance. The forest has changed dramatically since my last visit. Two weeks ago, the fierce winds of a freak thunderstorm pummeled Missoula, knocking down trees and powerlines. Here, it looks like a hurricane has passed through. The forest is still standing, but perhaps a third of the trees are gone. The wind snapped 60-year-old cottonwoods like toothpicks. The forest floor is littered with tree trunks and the smell of drying cottonwood leaves.

I pick my way over and around the debris to check on the nest tree. I fear the worst for it. Although the breeding season is over now, the woodpeckers might have reused the cavity as a winter roost—or, in rare instances, as a nest in a future year. But even if the woodpeckers never again were to visit their laboriously-excavated home, it would remain important to the forest community. Dozens of species reuse old pileated woodpecker nests to take shelter and raise their young, from western screech-owls (Megascops kennicottii) and wood ducks (Aix sponsa) to Vaux’s swifts (Chaetura vauxi) and northern flying squirrels (Glaucomys sabrinus). As I get closer, I prepare myself for bad news. Is the tree even standing still?

Destruction and regeneration

When I arrive, I’m relieved to see that the snag is unharmed. In fact, this section of the forest seems to have gotten off easily, with just a few toppled trees and downed branches. In contrast, a stand farther away from the river looks like a massive bulldozer ran over it, knocking over more than half of the trees.

During the hot, late summer afternoon, a very occasional kekekekeKE in the distance is my only clue that the pileated woodpeckers are still here in their wind-struck forest.

Standing among broken tree trunks, I think about destruction and regeneration. The loss of these trees feels tragic. But I know this isn’t the end of the story. In a few years, the downed trees will fruit with oyster mushrooms (Pleurotus sp.)—delicious sauteed in garlic—as the cottonwoods slowly transform into soil. Perhaps a hollow log will become a winter shelter for a porcupine. Will the snapped-off trunks resprout next year, like they do when the beavers cut them down? In spite of the catastrophic winds, much of the forest is still standing. And if the river is allowed to flood, a future spring will deposit fresh sediments as cottonwood silk is flying on the breeze, and a new generation of forest will emerge.

Threads of story

Soon the fall carries me south, to my partner’s home in Oaxaca. But the pileated woodpeckers stay with me; the cottonwood forest stays with me, imprinted on my heart and mind. Sometimes I let my imagination wander among the tree trunks, not knowing what I will find: a pileated woodpecker family, a song sparrow’s nest, fresh beaver activity along the river, a new story in the wordless tapestry. 

As I write over the winter, I gather together threads of story—special places in nature like this cottonwood forest, the call of a Cassin’s kingbird (Tyrannus vociferans), the dogbane that grows along the river and the birds of evening in the Oaxacan tropical forest—as I try to find meaning among the contradictions of my life. To love people and places bridged by jet fuel as climate change unleashes catastrophic wildfires, droughts, and hurricanes. To integrate into this Huatulco community as the tourist boom skyrockets prices, destroys mangroves, and changes ways of life. To seek a healthy relationship with the earth and my neighbors as billionaires and large corporations threaten it all to fill their pockets.

The Story is in Our Bones

I keep on thinking about the pileated woodpeckers as I read Osprey Oreille Lake’s book The Story is in Our Bones: How Worldviews and Climate Justice Can Remake a World in Crisis. She writes:

…[W]hen we take a deep breath and slow down to really think about it, the things that actually make our lives possible and joyous very often are not the things that require extractivism or items to purchase. Photosynthesis, the hydrologic cycle, love, friendship, walking in the beauty of nature, mutual aid, sharing stories and meals—these are all things that can be done without financial exchange. In the current dominant culture worldview, which commodifies everything and sees things only for their deemed financial worth, we become further detached from what is given freely—wildflowers and glaciers are exiled to the realm of the superfluous since there is no monetary value assigned to them. We are taught in the commodification culture to lose respect and appreciation for many nonfinancially related treasures.

To counter this rapacious economic worldview, we can work to restore what many have called a gift economy—a system that many of our ancestors participated in, some communities still practice today, and has engaged an ever-growing network of thought leaders. One of the central principles is not to hoard wealth; rather, the gift economy framework is about understanding that the only way the entire breathing, living ecology of place and community survives and thrives is through mutual aid. By making and giving gifts and moving those gifts throughout the community, we ensure our human and nonhuman relatives are taken care of. The essence of this exchange model is about aligning our economies with the natural laws of the Earth and our neighbors. 

In communities that have practiced the gift economy, valuables are not exchanged for money or for other goods but are instead given with no outward agreement that anything will be immediately returned. There is an implicit expectation that the person who received the gift will also give at some point in the future, whether back to the giver, to another person, to the land, or to the whole community, and until that happens, one remains in a state of positive debt. While debt is uncomfortable for those of us who live in a market economy, in a gift economy, debt is what binds one to the gift-giver and to the whole community, intentionally creating an atmosphere of ongoing reciprocity.

A gift economy

Osprey’s words ring true for me. I’ve experienced it so often in Oaxaca, this heartfelt generosity. An ear of maíz criollo, an invitation to share a meal. A complete stranger who invites me to visit their rancho. A glass of mezcal, an unhurried conversation, an “ésta es tu casa.” In many cases, to offer to repay these gifts with money would be an insult. And so I stay forever indebted, humbled, and grateful. I share my knowledge of birdsongs, pass on the gift of oranges from the abuelo Teo’s orchard, help out with dishes and firewood. Not to repay, because that’s not possible, but to pass the gift forward.

It’s that way with the pileated woodpeckers, too. How can I repay the gift of a wild call on the April breeze? They’ve showed me their home, trusted me with their nestling, helped me see the magic of this forest. To repay the gift would be impossible: I’m forever indebted to pileated woodpeckers. But I can try, in some small way, to reciprocate. To protect the location of their nest tree; to share the magic of their forest. To invite you, as well, to enter into a gift economy with pileated woodpeckers.

The song of the western screech-owl

It’s a starry April evening in 2025, one of those nights when the frost falls as soon as the sun sets. In a cottonwood grove along a stream in the western Montana foothills, a western screech-owl sings his bouncing-ball song as the water rushes over billion-year-old polished stones. I wonder if he has a mate yet, or if he’s still searching. I wonder whether the pileated woodpeckers have left a nesting cavity for him in this cottonwood stand, excavated one dry beakful at a time from the heart of a dead tree.

Each spring, the woodpeckers carve new holes, and their gifts continue for years afterwards. They provide homes where they didn’t previously exist for western screech-owls, hooded mergansers (Lophodytes cucullatus), Barrow’s goldeneyes (Bucephala islandica), and American kestrels (Falco sparverius). Ésta es tu casa. The song of the western screech-owl continues in the frosty night: a song held by snowmelt streams, old cottonwood silhouettes, and the gift of the pileated woodpeckers. And in the quiet song of the owl, I seem to hear a “thank you.”

Further reading

Bull, E.L. and J.A. Jackson. (2020). Pileated woodpecker (Dryocopus pileatus), version 1.0. In Birds of the World (A.F. Poole, editor). Cornell Lab of Ornithology, Ithaca, NY, USA. https://birdsoftheworld.org/bow/species/pilwoo/cur/introduction

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This story is the second in a series about a pair of pileated woodpeckers (Dryocopus pileatus) along the Clark Fork River near Missoula, Montana, USA. If you haven’t heard last month’s installment, you can start there… or just jump in here!

April 21, 2024. It’s a sunny but windy afternoon along the Clark Fork River. It’s been just over a week since I last came here. The intervening days have been cool and gusty, punctuated by a short-lived spring snowstorm. Everything changes so fast in this season. Now the leaves are bursting forth along the river where a week ago the trees were gray. The floodplain forest is perfumed with the scent of cottonwoods (Populus balsamifera), the canopy filled with a haze of pale coppery green. This time I’m with my Helena-based wildlife photographer friends Lea Frye and Rachel Ritacco. I’ve decided to entrust them with the secret of the nest tree, knowing they will care for the sensitive nest location as well as I do. 

This time, we hear a pileated woodpecker even before we get close to the nest. Hundreds of meters away from it still, in the more heavily-traveled section of the park, we find the male drumming on a dead section of a branching cottonwood trunk. The drumming carries far through the springtime forest.

The nest tree

As we approach the nest tree, though, all is quiet. The wind is stronger here along the river, whooshing through the forest. Tree swallows (Tachycineta bicolor) forage energetically over the water, their calls faint above the wind noise, but the cottonwood snag appears abandoned. Have the pileated woodpeckers left and decided to build their nest elsewhere? 

Just as we’re about to leave, the male flies in from behind us, a silent red-and-black shadow streaking past. As he arrives, the female flies out of the hole—which clearly was occupied all along—and he enters, disappearing completely. Obviously the woodpeckers have deepened the hole substantially during this chilly April week.

Wood chips on the breeze

We watch the male for over an hour and a half. Mostly, we see a black hole in a tan tree trunk. From time to time we can hear him excavating if we listen closely, a quiet tapping from deep inside the cavity. Finally, after several minutes of excavating, we see his head poking out of the entrance, a contrast of shadows and feathers partly lit by the westering sun. He observes the outside world silently for a long pause—making sure the coast is clear of predators, we suspect. Finally, he retrieves huge beakfuls of wood chips and flings them out of the entrance with forceful flicks of his head. I wonder what that sensation is like, having a mouthful of dry cottonwood shards. The west wind disperses the wood chips in the blink of an eye.

Two weeks digging a nest

Three days later, I return to the woodpeckers. It’s been 13 days now since I first noticed them digging the nest cavity. Fresh leaves the size of my fingernails are emerging on the red-osier dogwoods. Song sparrows (Melospiza melodia) are singing and red-naped sapsuckers (Sphyrapicus nuchalis) are drumming from all over the cottonwood forest, and the orb-weaving spiders have webs strung all over the place. 

The sun is a few hours high and is just starting to feel warm when I arrive at the nest tree. There’s no sign of activity when I arrive, but within a few minutes the male flies in. After perching on the outside of the trunk for a while and cautiously poking his head in—checking for predators?—he enters and begins the same excavation routine I watched with Lea and Rachel a few days ago.

But this time, he only gets through one bout of tapping and wood chip throwing before something different happens.

A conversation among pileated woodpeckers

I hear a single call from a different pileated woodpecker in the distance, on the other side of the river. The male immediately pokes his head out of the hole and responds. A minute or two later, he calls again. I’m slow on the uptake, unfortunately, and don’t manage to record any of these calls. By the time I manage to turn my microphone on and begin recording, the woodpeckers have fallen silent.

Then I see the female—at least I presume it must be the female, though I’m too busy recording the sounds to lift my binoculars and confirm—fly in shallow undulations across the river, straight towards the nest tree. As she gets close, she gives a different call. She flies 10 meters past the nest snag and lands on the trunk of a live cottonwood. 

The male doesn’t poke his head out this time. Instead, he begins tapping inside the cavity—a clearly communicative tapping, faster and obviously louder than his excavation noises. 

The female flies to the cavity. It seems that she taps briefly on the entrance. The male pokes his head out and exits, flying away across the river. She enters, stays just a couple of seconds, and then flies off in the same direction.

Nesting in the springtime forest

What is happening here? I ask myself. It seems that the nest cavity is quite deep, perhaps close to finished. Could she have been soliciting a mating? Are they laying eggs, or getting ready to?

Nesting season is definitely progressing. That afternoon, as I’m still wandering along the river, a song sparrow flushes silently from the grasses almost at my feet. I freeze. Searching carefully, I manage to find the nest, a neatly woven cup nearly at ground level, tucked in a clump of last year’s reed canarygrass leaves. There are at least three nestlings inside. I snap a photo and quickly back off.

A profusion of May voices

Almost a month passes before I’m able to visit the pileated woodpeckers again. It’s a rainy morning in late May. The sweet, resinous scent of cottonwood leaves permeates the air. Their canopies catch the steady, life-giving rain and concentrate it into big fat drops that splash against the red-osier dogwood foliage below.

A northern waterthrush (Parkesia noveboracensis) is singing loudly near the side channel of the river that protects the nest tree from attention. The log I usually cross is almost submerged in the spring flow, and the low swales along the river have become elongated pools. Migrating Swainson’s thrushes (Catharus ustulatus) and hermit thrushes (Catharus guttatus) are foraging in the understory. Occasionally I hear their faint calls through the rain.

When I arrive at the nest tree, I find a relatively protected place to sit under a cottonwood and I watch. A gray catbird (Dumetella carolinensis) is lurking in the shrubs near the song sparrow’s territory. Another northern waterthrush is singing from the denser shrubs behind me. 

Incubation?

It doesn’t take long for the pileated woodpeckers to appear. The female flies in silently and perches at the entrance to the nest. I notice that she’s not carrying food or anything else in her beak. She waits there for a while, tilting her head slightly. Then I glance away at a critical instant and miss seeing what happens—but suddenly a pileated woodpecker is flying away across the river. A minute later, I see the other woodpecker poke its head out of the cavity, then disappear back inside.

By now I had been expecting to find the parents feeding chicks, but what I’m seeing isn’t lining up. Are they still incubating?

Reading in Birds of the World, I decide that they almost have to be. The incubation period is supposed to be around 18 days, and adults are quiet and secretive during this time. But by day three after hatching, “nestlings sound like [a] beehive.” We definitely haven’t reached the beehive stage yet.

June growth

I’m not able to return to the island again until June 13, a sunny morning in a stretch of sunny mornings. The combination of May rains and June sun has made everything grow in the blink of an eye. Smooth brome and reed canarygrass are about to flower; the horsetails are lush and dewy; and the cottonwood canopy is green-gold and glossy where the sun is touching it. The melting snow in the mountains has made the river even higher than last time. The log across the channel seems slightly precarious, and as I follow the trail toward the pileated woodpecker nest the only tracks I see in the mud are those of the deer.

This time, I don’t have to wait for activity at the nest tree. Before I can even see it through the intervening cottonwoods, I hear the booming voice of a pileated woodpecker and glimpse the black form of one of the parents bouncing away through the trees. As I approach within sight of the nest, I deduce that it must have been the male whom I saw fly away: the female is still nearby, a hundred meters to my left, foraging on a live cottonwood. As she moves to a smaller dead branch protruding from the trunk and begins to forage loudly, chiseling with her powerful bill and dropping shreds of bark, I pull out my microphone and begin recording.

The nestling

Gradually, I become aware of another sound, this one coming from the nest. It’s a hoarse, insistent call, repeated over and over. The maker of the sound is a nestling, its head protruding impatiently from the hole in the tree. As the female flies to a nearer cottonwood and gives her deep kekekekeke, the begging becomes louder. She waits a few seconds more and then flies to the entrance hole, shoving food into the expectant bill of the nestling. She retreats to her calling tree, calls once more, and then flies south into the forest. The nestling falls silent, though before very long it resumes poking its head out of the hole.

It’s around half an hour later when the male arrives. He flies in without warning and the nestling only begs for a few seconds before papa woodpecker feeds it. He too flies to the same calling tree afterwards. There he perches for several seconds, perhaps taking a bit of “me time” before resuming parenting duties. Then he calls once and is gone, heading west along the river.

This concludes part two of this story about the pileated woodpeckers. Look for the third and final installment of the story next month, at the beginning of June!

Further reading

Bull, E.L. and J.A. Jackson. (2020). Pileated woodpecker (Dryocopus pileatus), version 1.0. In Birds of the World (A.F. Poole, editor). Cornell Lab of Ornithology, Ithaca, NY, USA. https://birdsoftheworld.org/bow/species/pilwoo/cur/introduction

The post Immersed in the spring forest: watching a pileated woodpecker nest appeared first on Wild With Nature.

This was going to be a story about pileated woodpeckers. But then historical events intervened, and I couldn’t ignore them. We’ll get to the woodpeckers, I promise, but first we’ve got a journey ahead of us…

The hot March winds buffet the jet as we thunder skyward, shattering the quiet of the dry tropical forest below and spewing hot gases of ancient sea life. I crane my head and say a silent goodbye to the Huatulco landscape that has become a second home to me. We’ve already rocketed higher than the Cerro Huatulco; the dry course of the Arroyo Todos Santos slips by in an instant and then we’re banking towards the coast, a wide wide turn over the tierra natal of my partner and generations of her family. Goodbye for now, my loved ones, que Dios los cuide. 

Santa María Huatulco is out of sight now, but I left part of my soul in the tiny garden in front of our house, and I know Carito and our family will keep it watered while I’m gone. The tomatoes are still green, but we harvested epazote this morning before we had to go to the airport, and yesterday I planted sugarcane from grandfather Teo in a crate along the street.

Saying goodbye

Banking, the jet keeps banking, then levels out again, paralleling the coast. The water has dropped even more in the Laguna El Zarzal, where I watched a black-bellied plover (Pluvialis squatarola) on the mudflats in December, within the protective circle of the mangroves. We race over La Crucecita and all of the tourist hotels and sprawl of Bahías de Huatulco, the golf course at Tangolunda, the mouth of the Río Copalita where the collared plovers (Anarynchus collaris) hide in the sand.

We bank again and the landscape keeps shrinking into anonymity as we set course towards Ciudad de México and points north. By the wee hours of the morning, if all goes well, I’ll be in Missoula, Montana. I keep my eyes glued to the window and trace the Río Copalita upstream to Santiago Xanica, where the first oak forests begin and Zapoteco is still a living language, and then I’m lost for a time, without landmarks as we cross the pine forest, mountains and narrow valleys, so many mountains, of the Sierra Sur. Goodbye for now, Santa María Huatulco.

A critical time

This is no routine trip. We’re two months into the second Trump presidency in the US, and all of the reports I’ve been seeing make me fear that my country of origin is plunging into a dictatorship. Some of my Republican friends and family members interpret things differently, and still believe that Trump is fighting corruption and has everyone’s best interests at heart. I really wish I could believe that. A few days before my flight, Trump’s police arrested 261 immigrants in the US, accused them of being linked to a violent gang—no evidence, no trial—and shipped them to a hell-on-earth prison in El Salvador. When a federal judge ordered them to turn the planes around, they ignored the order. “Oopsie, too late,” posted Nayib Bukele, the dictator of El Salvador. 

By the time I reach Salt Lake City and am ready to pass through US Immigration and Customs Enforcement, I have a pounding stress headache.

Finding our shared humanity

I pass through customs without incident, shielded (so far) from Trump’s terrorism by my white skin and my American passport. A security agent jokes lightheartedly with his companions about DOGE, the informal agency Trump has illegally created without congressional approval through which Elon Musk, the world’s richest person, has been dismantling federal agencies, favoring his own companies, and accessing sensitive information about taxpayers. I’m relieved to see the human side of these security agents, relating without aggression to the passengers they’re screening and making jokes in the face of it all. As Trump tries to convert my country into a fascist police state, our shared humanity—immigrants, citizens, police officers—is a vital defense.

I think of my companions on the flight from Mexico City, an older man from Michoacán who has lived many years in Oregon and his wife from Pinotepa Nacional, Oaxaca, who is visiting the US for the first time ever. It took them three years to get her immigration documents approved. Their courage in crossing the border at this time gives me strength, and I hope they make it through without problems.

The resistance

I arrive in Missoula with a cautious sense of hope. This doesn’t feel like a community defeated by two months of attacks on democracy, humanity, and nature. If anything, I sense that the storm—as Trump and his ultra-rich backers show us the extremes of sick human behavior—is bringing us together. Community is resistance. Kindness to our fellow humans is resistance. Saying no to fascism is resistance. And nurturing a healthy connection with the earth is resistance.

And so — I connect anew with this Missoula earth and community that I love. I chart my steps forward, to live towards a thriving world connected to nature even as those afflicted with the sickness of greed and power would destroy it. I talk with my partner from the wintry cusp of a Montana spring and feel the tug of mangoes ripening in the hot March winds. And, as I ground my being once again in my relationship with this Missoula earth, I remember the pileated woodpecker family I got to know here last spring…

The pileated woodpeckers

It’s mid-April along the Clark Fork River when I first see the pileated woodpeckers (Dryocopus pileatus). The cottonwoods are flowering and the red-osier dogwoods haven’t leafed out yet. An occasional mourning cloak (Nymphalis antiopa) or Milbert’s tortoiseshell (Aglais milberti) butterfly flutters through the air. The tapping of the male pileated woodpecker is barely noticeable in the cottonwood (Populus balsamifera) the pair has chosen for their nest along the river channel. I watch him for maybe 20 minutes, perching on the outside of the dead snag and tap-tap-tapping on the trunk, periodically tossing out beakfuls of wood chips.

Finally I hear a kekekekeke call in the distance and he responds. A few minutes later, the same call and response again. And then comes the caller, the female. She lands on the far side of the nest tree. He flies off. She sidles over to the hole and starts the same excavation process. Tap-tap-tap, quietly. Toss toss toss, silently.

I look up the nest-building process. Three to six weeks in Oregon, reports Birds of the World. 23 days in Kentucky. Goodness!

Three weeks minimum for a pair of pileated woodpeckers to build a nest. Three weeks beating away at a stubborn dead tree, chipping a hole with a durable bill, constructing a fortress for the nestlings. Talk about dedicated parents.

Excavating a home

Two days later, I visit the pileated woodpeckers again: a sunny morning after a brief rainstorm in the night. The female is on the outside of the nest tree as I carefully approach, working on the cavity. But I get distracted by the ducks feeding in a riffle along the river—mallards (Anas platyrhynchos), gadwalls (Mareca strepera), and two green-winged teals (Anas crecca). When I turn back, the female is gone.

Fifteen minutes later, the male flies in, following the river upstream, and begins a long labor of tapping and tossing. The hole is already deeper than the last time I watched him. Still perching on the outside of the trunk, he now has to reach deep for wood chips. Many times I can only see the tips of his tail and wings, poking subtly out of the hole.

He is notably quiet, especially compared to the northern flickers (Colaptes auratus), which I can hear calling every few minutes from the surrounding forest. Finally, through pure luck, I’m able to capture a few of his calls.

Land of the pileated woodpeckers

Sitting here among the cottonwoods and red-osier dogwoods, the other sounds of this landscape gradually seep into my bones. A song sparrow (Melospiza melodia) gives long performances nearby, his melodic song of whistles and trills forming the backbone of the morning soundscape. One of his song perches is among the branches of a red-osier dogwood near the riverbank. Another one is higher, in the canopy of a young cottonwood. In the distance, another song sparrow answers from the far side of the river. 

The deciduous forest of this floodplain is extensive, an expanse of gray cottonwood trunks towering above an understory of tall dogbane (Apocynum cannabinum), goldenrods (Solidago spp.), and invasive grasses. The cottonwoods might look drab to some eyes in this still-leafless season, but for wildlife habitat they’re incredible, providing food, cover, and nesting cavities. I can hear the signs of this bounty in the mid-April soundscape: the pileated woodpeckers aren’t the only cavity-nesters here. Several northern flickers call and drum periodically. Red-naped sapsuckers (Sphyrapicus nuchalis), recently arrived from their winter range in northern Mexico and the southwestern US, give their slowing-down tapping from dead branches, defending territories across this forest. A group of tree swallows (Tachycineta bicolor) swirls along the river, giving their liquid calls.

The voice of the pileated woodpeckers

The male pileated woodpecker remains quiet most of the time. Once, a northern flicker lands nearby, then thinks better of it. The pileated begins calling forcefully and follows the flicker, warning him off, then returns to his nest tree. Another time, as the song sparrow choruses in the background, he calls without any inspiration that I can see, the powerful kekekekeke that lets the whole forest know a pileated woodpecker is around. 

Mostly I just hear his quiet tapping, barely audible over the noisy conversation of the river.

Further reading

Bull, E.L. and J.A. Jackson. (2020). Pileated woodpecker (Dryocopus pileatus), version 1.0. In Birds of the World (A.F. Poole, editor). Cornell Lab of Ornithology, Ithaca, NY, USA. https://birdsoftheworld.org/bow/species/pilwoo/cur/introduction

The post Journey to the pileated woodpeckers: earth connection in a critical time appeared first on Wild With Nature.

It’s an afternoon in late April along the Clark Fork River near Missoula, Montana, USA. The song of the tall dogbane (Apocynum cannabinum) isn’t obvious, like the red-winged blackbirds (Agelaius phoeniceus) that are singing in the aspen grove on the other side of the river, or the European starlings (Sturnus vulgaris) that are nesting in the cavities of the cottonwoods. But the dogbane has a song, too, a song it sings with the wind. I can hear it this afternoon as last year’s dead stalks whisper and rustle in the breeze, brushing against the dry stems of its neighbor, reed canarygrass (Phalaris arundinacea).

To know the birds is to become weightless for a time, to imagine life with wings, to sing in celebration. To know the plants is something slower, quieter, but equally powerful. A connection with the plants is rooted in the earth, grounded in place. The birds tell us of migrations, invite us to think globally, to transcend borders, to recognize habitats, perhaps to forget for a time the major environmental costs of travel as we try to imitate their journeys. The plants invite us to slow down, to become rooted in our local soil, to breathe and flex with the circular motions of the seasons.

Dogbane and cultural legacy

Tall dogbane holds a cultural legacy that stretches back for countless generations on the North American continent. Indigenous people have used its durable stem fibers to make string and cord for more lifetimes than I can imagine. As a kid in central North Carolina, I learned this ancient practice of making cord by twisting the fibers of plants. There was a small patch of dogbane along the dirt track that provided access to the neighborhood sewage line. I recognized it as a fiber plant, but I didn’t know how to gather its stem fibers then. Instead, I twisted a much weaker cordage by splitting the leaves of the cattails that grew in a local marsh. 

Years later in Montana, reading Tom Elpel’s book Foraging the Mountain West, I finally learned how to separate dogbane fibers from the stem. (Sarah Corrigan of Roots School gives a video explanation here). Visiting my mom in Missoula, Montana, I got to know a beautiful, thriving patch of it along the Clark Fork River. In the winter we gathered the dry burgundy stems. I showed my mom how to twist dogbane string and I thought of all of the generations of people who have gathered this plant and thanked it for its gifts. Taking online college classes during the covid pandemic, I twisted dogbane during my writing and anthropology classes and used it to sew bundles of ponderosa pine needles into concentric spirals. Before the pandemic ended, the dogbane and ponderosa pine had become a gathering basket.

Emergence

And that brings me back to April 2024. As red-winged blackbirds and starlings sing their songs of spring along the Clark Fork River, last year’s dead dogbane stalks whisper to me in the breeze. Under the canopy of cottonwoods, no new growth is yet visible, just the delicate silken tufts of dogbane seeds spilling out of their capsules, suspended from last year’s stems, singing with the wind.

On the gravel bar at the edge of the river, though, the sun has heated the rocky earth. At the base of the dead stalks, new dogbane shoots are just beginning to emerge. I make a goal to pay more attention to these plants this year, to write about them. If I stop to notice them, what will they teach me?

May growth

The next time I’m able to visit, it’s an afternoon in late May. A rain shower is pummeling the gravel bar, pattering on the quackgrass (Agropyron repens) and forming glistening beads on new dogbane leaves. The plants have grown swiftly in the last month. On these warm, sun-exposed gravels, the new red shoots are more than a foot tall. Last year’s dead stems, bleached to whitish tan, are still standing next to the young growth.

By now the yellow warblers (Setophaga petechia) have completed their migratory journey and returned to the cottonwoods. Spotted sandpipers (Actitis macularis) call frequently at the river’s edge. For the dogbane, it’s the season of rapid skyward growth, tender sprouts springing upwards with a supply of carefully-stored underground energy. As I walk under the cottonwoods, where the microclimate is cooler and shadier, I can see that the new stalks are still far behind, only a few inches tall. Here I find the wild licorice (Glycyrrhiza lepidota), too, the young shoots just emerging and launching their own race towards the sky. 

The hummingbird

The rain shower ends. The birds around the dogbane become active again and resume their singing. I’m watching two red-naped sapsuckers (Sphyrapicus nuchalis) in a red-osier dogwood (Cornus sericea), gleaning aphids from the leaves, when a hummingbird suddenly appears 15 yards in front of me. She’s a female with buffy flanks, a calliope hummingbird (Selasphorus calliope), and she’s hovering at the tips of last year’s dogbane stems. What could she possibly be doing?

Suddenly, I connect the dots: is she harvesting the little bits of seed fluff that remain, in the process of constructing her nest? I scramble for my camera, but I have trouble focusing it and then she’s gone. I’m left wondering if I really saw what I think I did. A few minutes later she returns and perches on a red-osier dogwood branch. I keep hoping she’ll visit the dogbane again, but instead she flies away. I’m left with a mystery.

A spider among the stems

The next time I visit, it’s mid-June. A cicada is singing from the cottonwoods above the dogbane patch. Western wood-pewees (Contopus sordidulus) whistle repetitively, and a blackish spider the size of a mustard seed waits in its multilayered web. The web is suspended from the scaffolding of one of last year’s white-bleached dogbane stems. It’s dotted with the remnants of tiny moths that the spider has trapped. A few yards away, a common whitetail dragonfly (Plathemis lydia) finds a perch on another weathered dogbane stalk.

The new dogbane has grown incredibly in the last month, as have its neighbors the grasses and the wild licorice. The stems are still supple and green, the leaves full-grown but tender, their pale veins and midribs strongly contrasting. Intent on the spider, I brush past too hastily, injuring a leaf, and it beads up with milky white sap. The sap tastes very bitter, a powerful hint to would-be herbivores: I’m strong medicine! Don’t eat me!

Dogbane on the gravel bar

Back at the sunny gravel bar, spring field crickets (Gryllus veletis) sing among waist-high dogbane shoots. Predictably, this patch continues to be well ahead of the shady dogbane. The upper stems are branching and the flower buds are already emerging. Spotted sandpipers call from the other side of the river as I run my hands through the wild mint (Mentha arvensis) growing under the dogbane and breathe in its rich, pungent scent.

I plan to visit the dogbane again in July, to spend a day or more watching the insects that come to its flowers. But the summer slips past, the fall too, and I migrate with the yellow warblers to my partner’s natal earth in Oaxaca, Mexico, the environmental costs of air travel nagging at the back of my mind. The dogbane stays behind, rooted in the river gravels. A part of me stays with it. 

Slow steps towards the plants

There’s no tall dogbane here in Oaxaca; its range ends in northern Mexico, mountains and deserts away. I miss this familiar friend. Little by little, I’m finding a place here, making new acquaintances and friendships. Including with the plants. On my morning and evening walks, I take photos of those that call my attention, attempt to learn about them. People tell me the local names and I try to remember them. I learn and forget and learn again, little bits and pieces of the incredible living richness of traditional plant knowledge, uses, and relationships. 

In our house, too, the plants are helping me put down roots. There’s no space for a garden, but I’m making compost with our food scraps and fallen leaves, mixing it with dirt that washes down the street, filling pots and wooden crates with homegrown soil. I’ve planted the ginger that grandfather Teo gave us, radishes, basil, tomatoes, hierbabuena, a passionfruit vine that my friend Joel gifted me. I scooped the tomato seeds out of the fruits and fermented them before I planted them: three varieties, a commercial roma, and two small local tomates criollos. The first ones are starting to flower now. Maybe there will be tomatoes before I return to Montana in mid-March.

Little by little is okay with the plants: they’re right here, patient, waiting for us to learn. As my friends Cat Raan and Syd Morical, herbalists and founders of Wild Wanders in Missoula, Montana like to say, every slow step towards the plants is a step of healing, for us and for the earth.

Dogbane beetles

As I keep reading more about dogbane, I find an article by Mary Ann Borge, a New Jersey-based naturalist who has done the sort of patient insect-watching that I didn’t get around to in 2024. She shares photos of a variety of bees, butterflies, beetles, and flies visiting dogbane flowers. Her story also introduces me to the dogbane beetle (Chrysochus auratus), an iridescent-green herbivore that specializes on dogbanes and related plants. I make a note to keep my eyes open for dogbane beetles this summer.

Dogbane’s strong stem fibers give us cord and rope and can connect us to this plant, to the earth where it lives, to thousands of generations of indigenous traditions. For me, dogbane is woven into my life in the memories of my childhood, the fibers of my pine needle basket, the threads of this story, in my gratitude for all that this plant teaches me, all that it gives. Dogbane invites me to become rooted in my local soil.

Becoming rooted

My appreciation for this plant has grown with every encounter, and a whole world has begun to show itself. Dead stalks singing in the April breeze. The silk of a hummingbird nest, the scaffolding of a spider web. The perch of a dragonfly, the strong fibers that connect me to the earth. For me, dogbane has become part of the heartbeat of the cottonwood forest—and are there dogbane beetles in this Missoula patch, too?

The plants wait for us, patiently—wherever we are—inviting us to slow down, to become rooted, to breathe and shift with the round rhythms of the seasons. Their invitation is a song, soft but steady. Dogbane stalks rustling in the April breeze. Can you hear it?

Further reading

Borge, M.A. (2014, 8 July). What good is dogbane? The Natural Web. https://the-natural-web.org/2014/07/08/what-good-is-dogbane/

Corrigan, S. (2017, 9 November). How to harvest and process dogbane for natural fibers. Roots School. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5vPyRWGvDs

Kimmerer, Robin Wall. (2013). Braiding sweetgrass: indigenous wisdom, scientific knowledge, and the teachings of plants. Minneapolis, MN: Milkweed Editions.

Oregon Department of Transportation. (2011, 21 September). Soft as silk — strong as steel: the living heritage of Apocynum cannabinum. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8xgfQzpwnn0

The post The song of the tall dogbane: fibers at the riverbank appeared first on Wild With Nature.

What do moths have to do with owls? Just ask Mat Seidensticker. After nearly a decade spent studying owls across Montana and Alaska, Seidensticker focused his research on the flammulated owl (Psiloscops flammeolus), one of Montana’s smallest and most cryptic species. Soon, it became impossible for him to ignore the moths—insects that this owl hunts extensively during the summer.

In 2015, Seidensticker began working with other researchers at the Bitterroot Valley’s MPG Ranch, studying not only small owls, but also nighthawks and poorwills. And, once again, the moths kept fluttering into his life. Eventually, they would show him they were far more important than most people imagine.

Now, over 30,000 moth specimens later, Seidensticker and the initiative he founded, the Montana Moth Project, along with his collaborators, Chuck Harp and Marian Kirst, have learned a great deal about the roles that moths play in nature. These soft-winged aerialists feed a wide variety of animals, shape plant communities profoundly, and carry far more pollen than anyone would have guessed.

Whales of the sky

To Seidensticker, the night sky is like an ocean. Moths, flying ants, and crane flies are “sky plankton,” a teeming community of aerial life that feeds the larger creatures. Common nighthawks (Chordeiles minor) are the “whales of the sky,” dipping and darting over the sunset as they scoop up moths with their gaping mouths.

On a late August evening near Helena, we don’t have to look far to spot the nighthawks skimming through the air high above us as they hunt for dinner. Tonight, we’re hunting moths, too. Photographer Lea Frye and I have joined Seidensticker for one of his nocturnal expeditions as he works methodically to document Montana’s moths.

A theater for moths

A swath of dark gray clouds skids over the mountains as Seidensticker hangs a white sheet between two aluminum poles. This unusual-looking device is a “light sheet,” one of the common methods moth researchers use to study these elusive fliers. Seidensticker fires up a generator as darkness approaches, powering a black light and mercury vapor bulb mounted next to the sheet. The lights will confuse nearby moths as they navigate through the night, throwing off their sense of up and down. The white sheet will give them a place to land while we identify them.

“It looks like we’re setting up a small drive-in movie theater,” I observe.

“We are!” Frye says.

Tonight’s outdoor theater is at the knees of the mountains, where the grassland shifts into pine forest and the conifers begin their march up toward the Continental Divide. We’ve already set up several bucket traps—homemade moth collectors involving a battery, black light, funnel, and 5-gallon bucket—among patches of different vegetation deeper in the forest. With luck, the buckets and the sheet will show us a great variety of moths.

Wind through the pines

Everything is in place now. The ponderosa pines are majestic black silhouettes behind us, and a quarter moon is sailing through the southwestern sky. Now, our only problem is the wind, which is proving more energetic than we’d hoped. It seems to be discouraging moth activity.

Gusts rattle the sheet, sigh through the pines, and rustle the aspen leaves. We wait, listening to the monotonous trill of the tree crickets filling the night. If only the wind would settle down.

At first, the moths trickle in one by one. Then, we get a lull in the wind, and they start arriving in fluttery waves: a small snapshot of the invisible nocturnal river of insects flowing through the dark skies around us. The diversity of colors and forms is stunning. There are the subtle ones, of course, well-camouflaged in a delicate palette of charcoals, grays, and browns, as if an artist sketched their wings. But not all of the moths blend in.

A diversity of moths

Several grass-veneers (Crambus) appear, sleek honey-colored moths with flashy white racing stripes. Frye finds an emerald (Geometrinae), its smooth green wings fringed and patterned with white. I’m fascinated by the sulfur knapweed moths (Agapeta zoegana), bright darts of yellow with a black chevron pattern crossing their wings. Several Nevada tiger moths (Apantesis nevadensis) clamber along the sheet, clothed in a mosaic of black and cream that resembles a Cubist painting. Their hindwings are unexpectedly salmon-colored.

The range of shapes and sizes is mind-boggling: from the tiny white speck of a micro moth, no larger than a midge, to broad-winged gray stealth fighters and furry-bodied Nevada tiger moths. And then there are their eyes, gleaming coppery, brassy, and purple in the intensity of the light. We go from moth to moth, taking photos as Seidensticker identifies the species, and a hundred tiny eyes shine back at us in the night.

Weathering the night

Our luck doesn’t last long, though. Soon, the restless wind resumes billowing, and the moth activity slows down. By 11 p.m., we’ve packed up the light sheet and retired to our tents. Now, everything is riding on our three bucket traps, whose lights will continue shining until morning. With luck, the wind will quiet in the upcoming hours, facilitating a strong flight of moths and an abundant catch.

Two hours later, it’s not looking good. White flashes light up the turbulent sky as a thunderstorm plows over the Continental Divide, giving us a brief but thorough soaking. Each bucket trap is roofed with just a small aluminum pan. Is it enough to weather the storm?

Moths in the morning

The call of a Swainson’s thrush (Catharus ustulatus) pierces the moist pre-dawn stillness as we open the first trap. Last night, we left it on a narrow ridge of Douglas fir trees, overlooking a drainage dotted with aspens and willows. Despite the midnight shower, the trap has served its purpose. Among the egg cartons inside, which provide places for moths to rest and hide, we see a rich assortment.

“Just looking at it here, there’s probably 20 to 30 species,” Seidensticker tells us. Some of these are new to me, including a broad-winged yellow moth. This one, like the pale green emerald we saw earlier, is a member of the geometer moth family, whose caterpillars are familiar to many people as inchworms.

The second trap, on a lower slope with a mature aspen stand nearby, gives us the largest moth we’ve seen so far, a species of underwing (Catocala sp.). This moth’s forewing is a fine achievement of camouflage, an intricate mottling of charcoal that resembles old aspen bark. But there’s nothing subtle about its hindwing, a visual exclamation declared in pink and black stripes.

Encountering sphinx moths

We retrieve the third trap from our lowest-elevation site, not far from the previous night’s light sheet. Here, large granitic boulders tower up among mature ponderosa pines, and patches of grassland and antelope bitterbrush provide habitat not present on our other sites. What catches my eye in this trap are two magnificently large sphinx moths, robust and furry. One of them, which Seidensticker identifies as an eyed sphinx moth (Smerinthus), has a pink-blushed hindwing with a surreal blue eyespot. The other, a spurge hawk moth (Hyles euphorbiae), has a pleasing bronze stripe in the forewing and a fuchsia-hued underside. These are the only sphinx moths we’ve seen tonight, and I admire the family of accomplished hoverers that often resemble hummingbirds when they fly.

Despite the uncertain weather, it’s been a productive night. Seidensticker estimates that we’ve caught between 100 and 150 species.

Thousands of species

As amazing as the assortment is from our single night in the field, it’s just one piece in the larger puzzle that the Montana Moth Project is gradually assembling. Already, the project has documented a whopping 1,250 moth species in the state. And that’s just the macro moths—the larger-bodied species, relatively straightforward to recognize in the field. Then, there are the micro moths—tiny midge-sized specks, much more difficult to identify but nevertheless important in the ecosystem. In fact, Seidensticker says, the micro moths are estimated to be three or more times as diverse as the macros.

The Montana Moth Project is collecting scientific specimens of all these species. The specimens go to the C.P. Gillette Museum of Arthropod Diversity in Fort Collins, Colorado or to the California Academy of Sciences in San Francisco, where they’re carefully curated as a reference library for biodiversity. In time, all of them—even the tiniest moths—will be identified. Including the micros, Seidensticker predicts there could easily be over 4,000 species of moths in Montana.

The ecology of moths

This number is mind-boggling—but what’s really incredible are the diverse lives of all these moths. Every species has its own story, a unique way of life fine-tuned to the harsh weather and varied vegetation of the Montana landscape. A lot of the details are still unknown; we’re still “in the dark” about many species’ basic biology. But what we do know is this: Moths are involved in a tapestry of relationships that is indispensable to the ecosystems around us.

According to Seidensticker, there’s an intimate “double link” between local moths and local plants. A tremendous variety of caterpillars chew on plants, forming the first link. Many adult moths feed on flower nectar, forming the second. Through these relationships, moths shape plant communities, feed a wide variety of animals, and contribute to pollination.

The double link: to eat and to be eaten

Caterpillar food plants, like the caterpillars themselves, are greatly varied. The pale enargia (Enargia decolor) develops primarily on aspens, tying the leaves together with silk. The oblique-striped emerald (Synchlora bistriaria) munches on sunflower and goldenrod blooms. Ambesa laetella, a beautifully patterned snout moth without a common name, feeds on wild roses. Eyed sphinx larvae rely on willows and cottonwoods. And through the simple act of chewing on leaves, caterpillars shape the course of evolution, pushing plants to develop defenses like hairy armors, bitter flavors, and aromatic compounds. Meanwhile, the host plants become caterpillar factories, producing millions of juicy larvae that songbirds eat.

If a caterpillar manages to escape the songbirds and transform into a winged adult, it may become important prey for flammulated owls or nighthawks. Bats feed so heavily on moths that certain moth species have developed sonic defenses, emitting high-frequency sounds that interfere with the bats’ sonar. Grizzly bears (Ursus arctos) gorge on adult army cutworm moths (Euxoa auxiliaris), which spend the summer hiding in talus slopes in the mountains. These moths are more calorie-dense than butter.

Moths and pollination

Meanwhile, scientists have only recently begun to recognize how important moths can be for pollination. In 2020, Seidensticker and his colleagues did a pilot study in the Bitterroot Valley using DNA barcoding to identify pollen swabbed from moth mouthparts. Impressively, they found moths transporting pollen from nearly a hundred plant genera, including common groups such as asters, legumes, and currants, as well as rarer plants like orchids and catchflies.

Moths may be especially important in this way because of how far they can carry pollen. Indeed, some moth species have been documented carrying pollen hundreds of miles. With their long-distance flights, they can connect the genes of isolated patches of plants. Bees, on the other hand, tend to forage close to their nests.

A soft-winged world

As researchers like Seidensticker continue to learn more, it’s becoming clear that moths are amazingly diverse, awesomely complex, and critically important to life around us. For Seidensticker, his journey of discovery began with owls. Now, it’s a web of connections: these fluttery pollen carriers link grizzly bears, bats, birds of the night, and plants in a complex dance.

And there’s still so much to learn. By 2030, the Montana Moth Project expects to have a comprehensive inventory of moth species in Montana. In the next decade, they’ll focus on developing the seasonal picture of when these moths fly. From there, the sky’s the limit, with much more to learn about pollination, host plants, and food webs.

It’s a soft-winged world that most of us take for granted. But the moths are out there—fluttering through our gardens, soaring through the nighttime pines—waiting for us to notice them.

The English version of this story first appeared in the Fall 2024 issue of Big Sky Journal, along with Lea Frye’s amazing photography. My Spanish translation appears here for the first time. You can find out more about the Montana Moth Project here.

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