Wild With Nature

May 15, 2024

A light rain fell during the night, and the west end of Lake Helena is wrapped in a gentle gray fog as the sun rises above the Big Belt Mountains. From our kayaks, it appears as a luminous ball filtered through the clouds. The voices of the birds are hushed. Almost the only sounds, besides the distant traffic noise from the interstate, are the splashing of my paddle and the rhythmic banging of the carrying handle at the end of my kayak.

I’m following my mentor, fellow biologist, and friend Grant Hokit through the fog, pointed towards the delta where Prickly Pear Creek empties into Lake Helena. During this season of spring migration, the sandbars and mudflats at the mouth of the creek are a local hotspot for shorebirds, many of them heading towards a summer much farther north on the Arctic tundra. 

Wildlife habitat at Lake Helena

I’m in Helena, Montana this summer, working with Grant to study disease ecology in ticks and mosquitoes. And on mornings like this one, when we aren’t working, Lake Helena—one of our closest local spots to observe a great diversity of birds and other wildlife—is drawing us like a magnet. The shallow lake, which spans over two and a half miles from end to end, is surrounded on two sides by smaller ponds and extensive wetlands of cattails and sedges.

And where Prickly Pear Creek spills into it, there’s not only good habitat for migratory shorebirds but also a broad band of peachleaf willows (Salix amygdaloides) with an understory of Wood’s rose (Rosa woodsii), golden currant (Ribes aureum), and other shrubby willow species (Salix spp.)—in short, an excellent riparian habitat for animals ranging from yellow warblers (Setophaga petechia) to white-tailed deer (Odocoileus virginianus). 

Visiting a special place

As a naturalist, one of my favorite things in life is spending time in incredible wildlife habitats like Lake Helena and its surrounding wetlands. Wherever I live, I try to find at least one place like this, as close to home as I can. Whenever I visit, I bring snacks, layers, and plenty of water and I plan to spend at least a few hours. Sometimes I’m so happy to be out here that I end up spending the whole day.

I like to go slowly. Often, sitting quietly—or drifting slowly in a kayak—is an amazing way to get close to birds and other animals and to learn about their lives without disturbing them. And after I’ve started to get to know a place like this, I love returning to it whenever I can, seeing how its moods and patterns change from day to day and from season to season. It’s something that gives me a sense of belonging on the earth, a sense of hope for the resilience and diversity of life, and a compelling desire to protect and nurture these special areas.

Telling stories of Lake Helena

Lake Helena is one of those places that, when I come here in May by kayak, seems to shout to me to tell stories about it. That’s how it was when I went there last spring, on May 16, 2023, a foggy morning as well. I drifted slowly through the chilly mist, being careful not to disturb the group of trumpeter swans (Cygnus buccinator) who were paddling near the edge of the marsh, talking quietly among themselves.

And now, a year later, the marsh and lake seem to be calling to me once again to share their story. This portrait, from my morning at Lake Helena on May 15, 2024, will be the first of several. As I visit this place again throughout the summer, I’ll be preparing a series of stories following the seasonal progression here. And whether Lake Helena is near to you or far away, I hope that these portraits will inspire you. As you read or listen, I encourage you to think about your local special places in nature—or if you don’t have a spot like this in your life, to see if you can find one. What is similar between Lake Helena and your special place? What is different?

The soundscape of the marsh

I’ve stopped paddling for a little while, listening as my kayak drifts. Over the constant rumble of distant traffic, the music of the marsh soundscape to the west reaches me through shrouds of mist. I can hear the harsh, mechanical trills of the marsh wrens (Cistothorus palustris). A sora (Porzana carolina)—a small, secretive bird of the cattails—calls its name over and over: so–ra? so–ra?

I can hear the konk–a–ree song of the red-winged blackbirds (Agelaius phoeniceus) and so many other familiar, fainter voices. And then the sandhill cranes (Antigone canadensis) start their beautiful, deep-throated calling. I wonder if they’re near the nest we found a few days ago, a camouflaged platform of cattails at the water’s edge.

American white pelicans and American avocets

A shoal of American white pelicans (Pelecanus erythrorhynchos) looms ahead of us through the cool mist, showing us the location of the main sandbar of the delta. As our kayaks glide closer, we slow our paddling drastically and change course to keep our distance and float past, respecting the pelicans’ space. Eventually we’ll get closer to a portion of the sandbar, but we’ll do so slowly, quietly, attentive to the behavior of the birds. In this way, we’ve been able to watch sandpipers foraging within yards of our boats, unconcerned. The pelicans always require more space than that, but they too allow us to approach relatively close. As always with wildlife observation, our number one priority is to respect the animals and keep any disturbance to a minimum.

The marsh sounds are louder now, and an American avocet (Recurvirostra americana) is calling, an insistent peek! peek! peek! as it wades through the shallow water near the sandbar. The avocet is hunting by feel, sweeping its bill through the water in search of invertebrates. American avocets have been observed throughout the summer at Lake Helena and apparently nest here, though definitive records of avocets breeding at this site are scarce.

Shorebirds at the sandbar

The fog has lifted, receding south of us where a dense cloudbank is still covering the areas upstream along Prickly Pear Creek. A flock of ring-billed gulls flies right over us, calling loudly. From time to time we hear the American avocet again. And then a black-bellied plover (Pluvialis squatarola) begins calling, a clear and insistent peeowee? that it repeats, over and over. The plover, a gorgeous bird in its black-and-white breeding plumage, is one of those shorebirds that’s bound for the Arctic, where it will nest in an intensely seasonal landscape I’ve never visited, dotted with dwarf willows and heathers. 

By now we’ve drifted in to the edge of the sandbar, still giving the pelicans plenty of space. A group of tiny least sandpipers (Calidris minutilla) has approached us and is foraging within a few feet of our kayaks. From time to time they chatter exuberantly as they pick invertebrates from the sand. Like the black-bellied plover—which is still whistling in the background—the least sandpipers are northbound migrants. They’ll nest across a wide range of boreal and arctic meadows, filled with sedge and heather.

Suddenly the black-bellied plover launches into the air, whistling loudly as he flies past. A semipalmated plover—another northbound migrant that was feeding close to us—follows the black-bellied plover, giving a few creaky sounds. 

From the mudflats to the marsh

We’ve sat quietly for a long time observing the sandbar and the adjacent mudflats and shallows. How long, I don’t know—one hour? Two? Among the migrating shorebirds resting and foraging here today, we find two stilt sandpipers (Calidris himantopus), long-legged gray birds that feed methodically in water as deep as they can wade. It’s the first time this species has been recorded at Lake Helena in the spring, and I’m pleased that we can make this observation. Each record of migratory birds and other wildlife adds to our knowledge of this place, helping us understand how important it is and protect it.

Eventually, I paddle on towards the edge of the marsh. The habitat here is incredible—and the swell of birdsong that surrounds me now reflects that. Shallow pools with cattails and sedges mix with dense, bushy willow thickets. I can recognize the individual voices in the chorus of birds: marsh wren, Virginia rail (Rallus limicola), Wilson’s snipe (Gallinago delicata), brown-headed cowbird (Molothrus ater), common yellowthroat (Geothlypis trichas), red-winged blackbird, yellow warbler (Setophaga petechia), Canada goose (Branta canadensis), mourning dove (Zenaida macroura).

Marsh wrens and soras

But the most apparent is the marsh wren, singing his jarring, mechanical trills that only male marsh wrens sing. Two days ago, I watched a different male gathering cattail fluff and carrying it to his ball-shaped nest, woven among last year’s cattail stems. As the shorebirds are stopping over here on their way to the short Arctic summer, many of the marsh birds are already farther along in their seasonal cycle.

From a dense stand of cattails at the edge of the open water, a sora begins calling again, very close to me. So–ra?, so–ra? fills my ears, this classic voice of Lake Helena’s marsh. Farther away, a Virginia rail, another secretive marsh bird, is giving its gidick, gidick, gidick calls.

Lake Helena: an important place for birds

Lake Helena is designated as an Important Bird Area by BirdLife International: a site specially recognized for its value for bird conservation. Being out here today, that designation is no surprise. As we paddle back past the delta, a light breeze is picking up from the east, pushing up small waves that crash rhythmically against the sandbar. The pelicans are still here, perching alongside four species of gulls and a mixed group of Forster’s terns (Sterna forsteri) and common terns (Sterna hirundo). 

We’ve spent almost six hours out here this morning, and we could happily stay longer. But there’s office work to be done still, and the wind is nudging us that it might be time to leave. But while I sit inside, writing and editing this story, I know that Lake Helena is still there. I know I’ll be back to visit it again, and each time it will remind me how abundant life can be and teach me something new. And I hope that, wherever in the world you are, there’s a special place like this near you, too.

Further reading

Montana Audubon. 2017. Lake Helena IBA [Important Bird Area]. Retrieved from https://mtaudubon.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Lake-Helena-IBA_factsheet_2017.pdf

Lake Helena and its amazing ducks: a Wild With Nature story featuring Butte ecologist Mark Mariano. https://wildwithnature.com/2022/10/27/lake-helena-ducks/